LA PUPUSA

April 1, 2023 Buffalo Latino Village

My first few columns mainly focused on foods from Guatemala, which should not be surprising considering my background. This month, however, I would like to focus on the national dish of El Salvador: the pupusa. Pupusas are thick tortillas stuffed with meat, beans, and/or cheese. Traditional condiments include salsa and curtido: shaved carrots and cabbage mixed with vinegar, salt, and pepper.

According to Vanderbilt University, the origins of pupusas date back 2000 years ago to the Pibil tribe, who lived in what was known as Cuscatlan before it changed to El-Salvador after Spanish colonialization. When the country had a civil war during the 1980s, many refugees fled to North America and Australia, bringing their food culture.

When I was small, my dad brought me to a Salvadorian restaurant in Port Chester where we would enjoy pupas on weekends. A family friend recently taught me how to make them from scratch during one of my home visits. My all-time favorite filling for pupusas is chicharrón, made with pork ribs or butt. Black beans are my second favorite, perfect for vegans or vegetarians.

For the chicharrón, cut the pork into small pieces and then season with salt, pepper, cumin, and oregano. A premade Adobo seasoning mix will also work well. Heat a pan over a stove on medium-high heat with about a spoonful of oil. Pour the pork into the pan and cook until the meat is golden brown and cooked through, stirring occasionally. Take the meat out when done and cut it into shreds for the filling. I used a kitchen knife for this step, but I recommend using a food processor if you have one.

The black bean filling is made with canned or freshly cooked beans. Pour the beans into a blender and then until they are smooth. Place the beans aside and cut a large onion into small pieces. Pour the onion into an oiled pan and cook over medium-high heat until browned. Then pour the blended beans into the pan and stir them together. Continue cooking until the blend turns into a thick paste, scraping the bottom of the pan so nothing sticks.

Once the fillings are ready, it is time to make the dough. The standard measurements are 2 cups of masa harina and 1½ cups of water. Mix until a dough forms, adding another splash of water if needed. Take about a handful of dough and roll it into a ball. Flatten it into a disc, making a wide dent in the center for the filling. Surround the filling with the rest of the dough and then reshape it into a disc. The pupusa should be at least 4 inches in diameter.

A cast iron skillet is the best option for cooking pupusas since it retains heat better. Otherwise, a non-stick pan will also work. Place the pupusa on the lightly oiled skillet over medium-high heat and cook on one side for 5 minutes. Flip it to the other side and cook for another 5 minutes until cooked through, flipping a few more times as needed. Pupusas are best enjoyed fresh, so eat them while they are hot!